A message from the denim overlords.
Planet Diesel, inhabited by aliens with frosty eyes and a cult-like devotion to denim, took the house back to its roots. 15,000 kilograms of deadstock denim scraps carpeted the set at Diesel Spring/Summer 2025. It was not only beautiful to look at, but an eerie reminder of the waste generated by clothesmaking. Diesel has gone from using around three percent of regenerative, organic, or recycled cotton to make its denim to using more than 50 percent. It is not an insignificant change, and it’s one that they are striving to increase every season.
Diesel’s trompe-l’œil denim seduction has yielded a surprising amount of “wait, this is made from denim?” moments in its shows, but Spring/Summer 2025 took this deceptive technique to new heights. There were obvious moments that still surprised as was the case of the opening look where a pair of clearly-denim shorts was shredded to dégrade fringe. Then there was the case of exploded ruffle coats and devoré dresses. Were those denim? I couldn’t tell, but I would be willing to bet they were.
Some of my favorite looks were made from glossy leather (or were they?) that were trimmed with wide bands of fringe that was swooped around the neck like a scarf. It was a simple but effective styling trick that made them stand-out from a sea of other covetable toppers at Milan Fashion Week. As Diesel continues to grow under the guidance of Glenn Martens—who ostensibly has more time to focus on this brand now that he has parted ways with Y/Project—it has carved out its place in fashion as the brand for cool kids who live their values on their bodies. Intersectional, informed, and in-the-know, Planet Diesel’s inhabitants are colonizing the industry. And it’s all the better for it.
As Diesel continues to grow under the guidance of Glenn Martens, it has carved out its place in fashion as the brand for COOL KIDS who live their values on their bodies.
